Malawi05 journal

Day 11

2005-10-03T12:39:00.001-07:00

Wednesday 3.8.05
While the group are at Mlowe, I am at Livingstonia, the reason is to collect a ‘jo bar’ – a long 6’ spike required to move heavy stones at Tcharo that Ed requested. Could not get a spike in Mzuzu but have a couple at Livingstonia on the Gorodi Road Project.
So the day for me starts with meeting McLean (on the Gorodi Road Maintenance Team) to collect the spike which has been loaned to another road project! He will recover it tomorrow and deliver down to Mlowe as soon as possible.
The informed of a ‘major problem’ – go and see Head of Station – Rev Ted Nambela (tried to see him yesterday when arrived but was asleep)
The issue is that he and Mr Soko of PHC have taken all the monies intended for the GRP this year and that no funds are available therefore, to employ people on the Road; that I have the funds (completely untrue) and have ‘given’ this to Ted and young Soko. Have a meeting with all concerned except the accuser, who is away from the station. This is a straightforward Satanic attack against the Head of Station, Mr Soko and me. After a lengthy discussion it is agreed the way forward is to confront the person when he comes back, and secondly to write a letter to be read out in all congregations on Sunday from me saying that the accusations are untrue and malicious.
This all took time to sort out so was not able to get off the plateau till about 12:00. Drove with Rev Ted Nambela via the unofficial coal mine road to Chiweta and Chombe where left Ted then onto Mlowe. (was given broken Maize Mill bearing which hopefully will be able to get a replacement in Lilongwe next week or a complete new bearing).
The work on the jetty was progressing well and able to before lunch finish the seaward end – built a protective wall against the seas! During the morning the local MP came through on route to Tcharo – understand he was quite impressed at work done.
In the afternoon pushed on with finishing off the mixing (very hard work) cement surface and rendering the edges. At the end of the day – a very hard physical day – the jetty was 99% finished and will do the finishing touched tomorrow.
After supper had a testimony time from Rob and then to sleep. Praise God for the day – a very challenging day. God is good and his love is everlasting. John Challis

DAy 10

2005-10-03T12:39:00.000-07:00

Tuesday 2.8.05 ‘THE ENGINEERS REPORT’
Progress Report: Concrete mixed: 15 tons (seems like 150)
Rocks moved: 10 tons (20 if you count those moved back)
No of small rocks 128314 (give or take a few)
Collected:
Progress: Awesome (despite destructive waves)
Enthusiasm: Sky high
H & S: Interesting! (just one or two breaches of regs)
E. SAUVEN
3.08.05

I made the mistake of not writing this diary entry on the day having got back late and exhausted I never got the pen to paper. It did seem appropriate however 5 days into construction to make this the engineers report. So in short there it is above, not quite like what I was writing in London only 10 days before but so much more incredible. With 10 Muzungu’s and around 6 local volunteers we’ve really been able to rebuild the Mlowe pier. Progress has been great but it was hard to see three hours work washed away this morning when the waves came in around 11. It did not stop us however and we carried on til the sky began to darken at 5 in the evening making yet more concrete. The team has done so well despite the difficulties, I nearly stepped on a scorpion which is just one of the risks of mixing concrete bare foot. I think many of the Prof’s back home would be impressed with the work but may frown at the iuse of child labour and would probably ask me to retake the H & S exam but I think its going very well.
We all returned shattered in the evening but were privileged to hear Ruth’s testimony. I think it hit a chord with many of us who have at some point or other in life ignored God and led lives without him. It just made us feel how lucky we are that though we may forget him he never leaves us and is always calling us back. I think I better stop here, time is flying by soon the pier will be finished and then another started. So far so good. May God continue to be with us in all we do. Ed

Day 9

2005-10-03T12:38:00.000-07:00

Monday 1.8.05
At days end we sit around the flickering candle, discussing the big questions of life. Where is God in times of pain? What will heaven be like? What are the top 10 films of all time? Tired minds and tired bodies struggle to recover from a hectic day…
The working part of the day consisted of course of the working through of the cement: sand: stone: water ratio, with roles for all – wall building and tieing for the practically adept, concrete mixing for the physically strong, and rock collecting for… well, the others. As I have only a very limited grasp of the whole process, the best I can write is that there was more jetty at the end of the day than there was at the beginning. I believe this to be a Very Good Thing.
For Ed, Becky and Caravan (as Lizzie K has come to be called…) the day also involved a quick jaunt to Tcharo, for Ed to suss out the jetty building situation there. He returned stroking his chin and saying ‘It’s a big job’ – like a true professional. Apparently the highlight of the trip was eating some cassava, the local crop, in its pre-ground form. Yum?
The highlight of the day for me was probably that I got to have a little nap at lunchtime – closely followed by trying to explain to mama what the strange orange sticks were that I wanted her to cook for our supper… fish fingers do seem somewhat out of place here…
Following our fish finger supper, we returned full and happy to our room, only to discover just outside the door Our First Properly Dangerous Creature – a scorpion! Valiant Jo didn’t even let out a scream as she called us to look; while Courageous Al took on the mighty creature in a battle of wit and daring… and squashed it with a mug.
And so now, after deep discussions on the last 2 chapters of Galatians, we settle down to sleep. JC has nipped off to Mzuzu, and so the quiet night is broken only by the noctournal chickens. Sweet dreams everyone… although it was Larium Day for Al and Rob so their dreams might be slightly more interesting… Hey ho. It’s a new day tomorrow. Ruthie xx

Day 8

2005-10-03T12:36:00.001-07:00

Sunday 31.7.05
Our day off. Ed seemed to have lots of energy and wanted us to get out of bed at an unreasonable hour, but as a good leader, Ruth told him to go away by shouting "It's seven thirty!" over and over. Ed was trying to convince us that the hot water had to be used; but "flask-flask" was shouted in a vain attempt to make him let us lie.
We eventually awoke and some went for a dip in the lake.
We all put on our Sunday Best, and for some of us, included a tie!
Church was an interesting experience. We were allowed to sit on special seats next to the Elders. We had a talk on Matthew 18, 15:35 - all about forgiveness. It was a good talk although I don't think our Tambuka is up to following a sermon. We stood up to sing a few songs with our two guitars and our supportive 'choir'. We felt a great sense of fellowship and I was reminded about all our family and friends back home who would also be praising God on Sunday.
We are being treated very well and sometimes I feel like we should be just be seen as everyone else as we don't need lots of special attention, but I guess they are not used to lots of visitors out here.
Some of the 'Boys' (Jon G., Vince, Ed, Rob and me) went for an explore, trekking up a river. We had our knife and Ed and I made spears in case we saw a Black Mamba! All we saw were ants…. which seemed to be able to avoid my spear.
Again, we came back and we went for a swim down at the lake, with some of the ladies also joining.
Ruth cooked some pukka spag bol, once the fire was going - "we were cooking on gas…." (JG) and Vince surprised us with chocolate treats.
It has been over a week here now, and in some ways feels like we have been here months.
All are still in high spirits, and we all hope and pray things keep going as well as they are. Al.

Day 7

2005-10-03T12:36:00.000-07:00

Saturday 30.7.05
Yet another morning woken by the chickens, but apart from that, a good nights sleep. We awoke to the pitta patta of rain, but it didn't last long, luckily.
The day started as it was to go on - 2 barrels of sand, one barrel of cement, 2 of stone and a bucket of water all stirred in then shovelled on the top of the quay. The sun beat down and it was very tiring work.
Also at the same time as making cement, a blacksmith had been opened. Vince, Beccy, Ruth, Jo, Lizzie K. and I were beating metal rods to straighten them and making a metal mesh. We had a relaxing dinner of beef & rice. During the afternoon we did pretty much the same thing with a band of young local children collecting stones & shovelling sand.
After work we went for a wash and swim. Al came to the rescue of us girls from the local young kids. While we swam, Jon went off to play football with the locals. They wanted him to coach them.
Dinner took a bit longer tonight, we had given the Mama's half a day off, so we had to light the fire & cook. Vince & I successfully lit the fire & before long we had hot water. It took a little longer to cook the soup, but it was tasty.
Tonight, instead of studying Galations, we have decided to practice singing. For tomorrow, we will need to sing in front of a Church congregation, so we may be several hours!
During singing, I spotted the biggest spider ever. Unfortunately, my attempt to kill it was not successful.
Now I'm tired, I'm going to sleep. Good night. Lizzie F.

Day 6

2005-10-03T12:35:00.000-07:00

Friday 29.7.05
Slept better - didn't even hear John's snoring which, by all accounts has risen to new heights. No wonder Sue sends him to Africa. Start the day with a prayer or porridge. Porridge won and was much more like Tollesbury porridge today. Prayers after breakfast - then a surprise visit form the chief with an even more surprising gift - a goat! - living!! Ed made an appropriate acceptance speech. I photographed it. I thought the agreement was they would look after it until a celebration feast, but they left it tethered to a tree.
So - off to work. John drove off with Bob so we all said our goodbyes. Then set to work back at the jetty.
Quite an overcast day with a South Westerly force 3 blowing on shore, creating quite big waves, crashing onto the jetty and preventing any of the planned work. Instead we scoured out the sand & rocks between the concrete edges of the jetty at the end closest to the shore, to replace it with hard core, in preparation for laying a smooth concrete surface when the weather calms.
The job of collecting rocks was enthusiastically taken up by John & Al, accompanied by about 20 small kids. Jo, Vince, Ruth & Lizzie collected rocks from the lake, becoming very wet in the waves.
Walked back to Mlowe clinic, passing a funeral on the way. Sampled the local fish with pesto sauce & cabbage. Chatted about the prejudice & Jews.
Sunnier after lunch and the wind had shifted so the waves onto the jetty had ceased - ideal for fishing off the side gabion. Kids continued shifting stones, loading 2 or 3 stones & a couple of kids with each load. Got the gabion fixed and shuttering cut ready for tomorrow.
Beccy & Lizzie arrived just in time for us to pack up and leave. They had been busy though, measuring the mill. At the square by the shops, close to the quay, lads were assembling for football. Several of us joined in but were easily out-classed, even by the young lady who seemed to have the best pair of football boots of any of them. Many of them had boots and some seemed to have gone to considerable lengths to look the part. Only John & Beccy stayed on while we walked back with a whole host of small children who wanted to hold hands.
Back at the hospital, the kids came to chat with Vince. Then sing and dance with al, Beccy and Lizzie while it quickly got dark and I wrote this diary.
John still not back from Mzuzu and not back by our light supper. At what point do we worry and what can we do about it anyway. Then there is the realisation we might get a good nights sleep, so the relief of seeing him is tempered with disappointment.
8.00pm Bible study and Corinthians 3 tells us that Jesus comes to show us the way to salvation - that salvation through the Law is impossible, so don't take up Jewish laws after becoming a Christian. Not as passionate as last night. Everyone rather quiet, tired and subdued. Joke quality fairly poor. "What do you call a girl who doesn't get bitten by mosquitos?" "Annette". Rob.

Day 5

2005-10-03T12:34:00.000-07:00

Thursday 28.7.05
I am writing this during one of the longest lunch breaks ever - made longer by the fact our days now run for 6am - 9pm, lates on Trinity are but a distant memory.
Work began yesterday, much to the amusement of the locals - apparently there is something quite entertaining about watching the mzungas (white people) splashing about in the lake especially the female ones who are yet to discover the correct boundaries of the beach. We continued with the jetty this morning, but with a smaller congregation. The men of the group seemed more focussed on their dram making (something JC has never seen before). Each day seems to bring another helper and today came Peter to help with the cement making. Yesterday we met a young man called Honey and he made a brief return to visit Vince while bathing.

Note of appreciation: It has been a great pleasure to have had the chance to share just a few days with such a great bunch of people. It is not with a little regret that I leave you tomorrow. May God's blessings be with your work here. I'd like to wish each one of you the best of luck in your future careers. I shall long cherish my time with 'Fellowship Afloat'! Thank you once again for sharing your friendship with me.
Bob - robert.baxter@virgin.net
Please contact me if you are ever around the Inverness area.

Towards the end of the morning while our chain gang of stone bearers was in full flow, down the beach came strolling Ed (looking very much the young Michael Palin). Ed's journey had taken 4 days via Zambia, South Africa and a 5 mile walk down a dire road.
In the afternoon we carried on with the jetty but under Ed's instruction - who much to our amazement insisted that we scrubbed the stones clean to de-shine them in preparation for the concrete.
The afternoon ended in daunting fashion well at least for the girlies of the party (with the exception of Lizzie F). While working on the jetty 2 ladies came to help as they waited for the boat to Tcharo. These ladies were quite impressed by our determination to swim and followed us down the beach to watch. When we climbed out they were quite bemused by our tent of sarongs for changing in. This then led to a rather uncomfortable discussion regarding our conflicting views on female modesty, which was graphically illustrated
Making a swift end as was politely possible we returned to await the arrival of Jon, Al & Lizzie back from Tcharo. The 'Gay-Buicks' (as Jon, Al etc are collectively known) & Lizzie took the chance of making a preliminary visit to see what lay ahead. Al enjoyed the freedom that comes with doctoring in Africa, while Jon swam & Lizzie met some interesting people.

JC - Commander in Chief and leading us valiantly in our mission to build all manner of things in Malawi.
Bob - A gentleman (another Scott) who we seemed to have acquired although only briefly but incredibly gratefully. He has worked with both JC & Ed before & feels such a part of the team that it will be a real pity when he goes.
Ruthie - Well, wow, she is just being wonderful, so poised and at home in her surroundings (rather like Dr Quinn Medicine Woman) - all her hard work has resulted in an excellent project & accompanying team.
Ed - Everyone is so thankful to finally have him with us & not too late for him to steer us in the right direction with our work.
Rob - So far we have only seen minimal reckless behaviour (& that's a good thing). He is determined to always have some sort of project to play with to great effect as my torch proves.
Vince - Cook vs sailor? He seems to have a special fellowship with the water - taking advantage of any opportunity to go for a wade or fish for his tea.
Lizzie K. - The archetypal Victorian Missionary - well she's got the hat & the skirts & the musical ability.
Lizzie F. - Mermaid! Just the girl you need for deep sea rock diving.
Becs - As lively as ever but dangerously close to thinking too much. I'm certain she is plotting a way to save the World with the help of a side-kick or two.
Al - Has very nearly been accepted as one of the locals - he is fluent in something that may be related to Tambuka but is heavily reliant on ‘bollas’. He has also pioneered the quick draw knife reflex in response to the cry of Black Mamba.
Jon - Iron man? Well, in day light hours & away from any vegetation ankle deep - quite possibly. Just unfortunate both of these things are in short supply.
Me - Well, as for me, the pashmina is holding up well & there has been practically no shopping, but Ed has promised to go in search of crocodiles to assess the potential of a new handbag. Jo.

Day 4

2005-10-03T12:32:00.000-07:00

Wednesday 27.7.05
3.30 this morning the cockerels started crowing! I think it woke the others because they all started - "it's as if they were children saying 'I'm awake so you should be too'", someone said. Before 6.30 they were promised a short life.
Such was the start of the first morning in Mlowe. By 7 am we had tucked in to Kelloggs cornflakes and watched the sun lift over the mountains. We could see the other side of the lake - Tanzania? Mozambique? It was the clearest it had been for weeks apparently. It's a beautiful place, the scenery and atmosphere unlike anything. Even the cockerels are forgiven in the early morning light.
The prayers just after 7 were all in Tambuka, it was beautiful to pray with them but the singing made me sad and reflective. Where was all the extravagance and heartfelt worship of the other night?!
We looked around the clinic which was a smaller version of Eckwendeni. There are rooms for "family planning", "maternity", "wounds", "eye care", an area for caring for orphans ( only 5 here I think but 50 by the Watermill says Bob) and a garden out the back with carrots, marigolds, sweet peppers, aubergines, Chinese lettuce? This was designed by a tearfund team to improve the diet of the children.
After a trip to the "Hole in the Ground",
"General impressions?" asked John C.
- A lovely place.
- Very difficult to live though.
Difficult to live? The Mama's have cooked all our food for us and have just walked off with our washing!
We have been to see the pier 'jetty' on the lake - a cooling breeze coming off the water which dies off at Midday - not a sea breeze then! Apparently it comes down of the hills first thing.
The local guys - Newman, Miles, Francis were very keen to teach us their language and to practice English too. Ruth went to get local tomatoes - they are lovely and big. Coconuts were also for sale too. They were very skilled in skinning stones over the mini waves!
We also met the Chief Mwemlowe (the long way of spelling Mlowe) who's called Dave, he came to visit us early and we saw his hut and all his advisors late in the village.
Oh, there's so much to say about the village! Our arrival meant lot's of running children and shouts, they danced and sang while we looked around the Watermill - what they were singing, I'm not sure!
The Watermill was built in 1972 and restored by John C and team in 2002. It is an undermill and provides power for the grinding of the corn by day and hopefully HEP at night. I'd quite like to get involved in this project. We hope to give Scottish Power detailed diagrams of the mill and cogs.
While in the village we also saw the community - run orphan centre. It homes 50-100 children. The co-ordinator showed us around a beautiful new building - 2 classrooms but he still seemed in need of so many things. It almost felt as if he was giving us a sale-pitch, persuading us that his was a worthy cause.
Lunch - we had our main meal at 12.30 ish and there were greens - to the delight of some but not all. It was relaxed, since everything was so hot and we had to wait for a bit cooler air.
Returning to the beach after lunch, the wind had swung around to the south. It took less than half an hour to attract a crowd of 50 or so. "You afraid of mzunga" one local guy cried as he helped throw rocks onto the pier. He was the only one to help!
It felt so good to be working, actually doing something! I know other people enjoy the actual travelling, but I wish we could meet people without it!
Our evening meal was bacon butties - I think that's the end of the Western meat… we're thinking of fish for tomorrow.
We then started Galations with lively discussions and more prayers for Ed - where is he? Does he have accommodation in Johannesburg in a 5-star hotel? Is he sleeping in the airport? We've prayed for him to arrive tomorrow.
Tikuluta! (see ya later…) Becky.

Day 4

2005-10-03T12:31:00.000-07:00

Day 3

2005-10-03T12:30:00.000-07:00

Tuesday 26.7.05
Woke up in Eckwendeni for a good breakfast (7.15) cooked by Glory. I think we all had a pretty good night's rest despite the last few hours being surprisingly cold under our mosquito nets. Glory sang to us before we left, beautiful.
Eckwendeni is a Mission Station. The soil is dusty and bright red. In the centre is a large Presbyterian Church, built in red brick along the lines of churches back home, down to small but beautiful stain glass windows. John C. tells us two services every Sunday fill the Church. On the horizon are huge domes of rock, presumably ancient granitic phitons, sheer rock faces protruding out of rolling green hills.
The Mission Station has its hostel, schools (3 in number), hospital, Youth Centre and predominantly Christian population. A short guided tour took us to each of these units, where the enthusiastic patrons eulogised until abruptly halted by JC for us to move on.
Only the second time I have been into 'the' Headmasters Office, this one was a bit different though. A tea towel map of NI hung from the ceiling and a mirrored poster hung on the wall with the caption 'Look who can get AIDS'. Interestingly, the poster hung at teacher height and was hidden behind the door.
It's a bizarre situation where on the one hand the community is so open, whereby there are elements of Society swept beneath the carpet, or perhaps just lived with. The children were on holiday, circumcision time for youngsters. A traditional practice helping to spread AIDS via bloody razor blades, JC tells us.
The visually impared unit walls were covered in rickety shelves loaded with Braille texts, many bring Bible Stones. The big and friendly Head also told us the school specialised in 'Learning of the difficulties'.
Over 1000 pupils attended Eckwendeni CCAP School and shared a large collection of dusty and exceedingly well worn classrooms and 25 teachers.
We were introduced to a class of 150 beaming African children learning about first aid, principally choking. The conclusion seems 'Solid and Traditional', taught from blackboards and well received by youngsters sitting 3 to a wooden bench.
Aids is a huge problem, you wouldn't guess from looking at the people though. We visited the LISAP Centre and heard from an extremely well spoken, concise young man who runs the Youth work. Much of this work is aimed at combating AIDS. 50 bikes were stocked on the wall ready for volunteers to cycle 100's of km, educating, treating and caring for the 37,000 Orphans in Northern Malawi. The description of work with young people evoked memories of volunteers in the mud and working away for free in Tollesbury. Those who put in time seem to get more out than they could ever put in. Piled neatly and unobtrusively, but pointedly, in the corner of the vocational skills training wood shop, was a stack of small coffins.
We were lucky to meet, as JC put it, the future of Malawi, 130 trainee Ministers in their last few weeks of lectures before being sent out into the bush. All were married, I doubt many were over 25. They clapped each of us as we introduced ourselves. Al had a special clap as Revd. Quinn, the lecturer, described Al's Grandad as his mentor.
The hospital was divided into Curative & Preventative work. Much was concerned with preventing disease, building a fence on the cliff top as it were. All the more important in Malawi with the frustrations of the lack of resources described by the young Scottish medical students. It was sad to see the nursing school, most leave for SA & UK on completion of their courses, the matron did her best to keep Al on, discovering his 'vocation to be'.
Diahoreal disease, Pneumonia and Malaria are common, all treatable in the West. The doctors say the Malawians almost seem to feel no pain. We heard the story of one who was on paracetamol the day after a Hernia Op!
We drove to Mzuzu to meet the General Secretary of the Presbyterian Synod. It is quite something to see the relationship between the Church working and the Government. The Secretary looks after 120 congregations with 1,300,000 members in the region alone. He was a fan of the new President and asked us to pray for committed & faithful leadership and time & support for the President to rid Malawi of the corruption that allows only 5% of the population to 'swim in money'. His prayer was humbling. He thanked the UK 'without whom Malawi wouldn't be a Nation', I thought it was us who left Africa in the mess it is?!
We were graciously served up soup and bread by Helen Scott, the deputy Head teacher at the Secondary Girl's School and has taught in Africa for the best part of 20 years, amazing! Lawrence our driver seems to be coming out of himself and came in and had lunch with us.
Driving North was stunning. We were soon in the hills, the journey flew past and gangs of children would wave & scream as we passed.
Rows of hills stretched away for miles to our left, each subsequent line of hills silhouetted by the last.
Mlowe really is in the back of nowhere! - near the lake shore several miles along a red, dusty road punctuated with wooden bridges over fast flowing streams from the hills down to the lake.
We seem something of a novelty in Mlowe. There were some small tears, but mostly smiles. It is probable some of the little faces have never seen white people. It was a mission to set up camp beds, nets and all our polava before darkness at 6.30. The children inform me in a mix of Tambuka and pigeon English that a snake (probably a black mamba) lives on the hill. Fear is the same in any language in my book… I am fearful. No loo trips in the night - in fact as few loo trips as possible!
It is basic, I think we are all relishing the raw reality of the accommodation & life here; long may this last, it is early stages. Tonight Mama cooked sausages & rice which we ate by the fire…fantastic. It's encouraging to have a mama here.
Tonight we are going to read / sing Psalm 100 in the great Scottish Evangelical Missionary tradition.
"For the Lord is good & his love endures for ever;
His faithfulness continues through all generations." Jon.

Day 2

2005-10-03T12:29:00.000-07:00

Monday 25.7.05
We travelled a long way from Lilongwe (which is of course Lilongwe away)! and are now in Eckwendeni. We stopped first of all at a 7-11 (which is open from 8am - 9pm) that was really fascinating with familiar things mixed with the unfamiliar. Then back on the road, stopping to get fuel & sprite & curious sweet bread things.
Then past tiny little houses with straw roofs, past men dressed smartly riding bikes with wood stacked high behind the saddles, past women with beautiful posture walking elegantly with boxes, bags, sacks and stacks of wood on their heads, past children running barefoot by, past babies strapped tightly to their mothers' back with brightly coloured material, past strange elephant-looking mountains that loomed before us, past several road blocks and police & army checks, and eventually (past a lot more) we arrived here at the guest house.
This evening after a scrumptious meal we gathered with some other Christians (a choir) and sang, prayed, learnt, sang, prayed, sang, sang, drank, ate, sang then chatted for a while.
All in all, it's been a rather lovely day, the African sun smiling on us. I'm sure there's more to write but I'll leave it there. Lizzie K.

Day 1

2005-10-03T12:28:00.000-07:00

Sunday 24.7.05
This is our first night together in Malawi at the lovely Korean garden Lodge(?).The flight here was long - overall journey time from Tollesbury to our Lilongwe accommodation about 24 hours! The comforts are all here - a swimming pool with adjacent bar and restaurant and a sheltered garden with lots of exotic plant life such as giant bamboo with delicious looking ornamental trunks. It's also a pleasure to meet up with John Challis and friends - good company and a nice sense of developing plans for our time here. Shame about Ed S. who is apparently stranded in South Africa where his connecting flight is postponed due to a strike! Tomorrow we breakfast out by the pool at 7.15 for a hearty African breakfast before setting off on our next leg of Malawi. Vince.